India has a population of 1.25 billion people and, with its splendid history, culture and diversity, is a magnet for tourists. Yet there lurks beneath the surface (monuments, vibrant colours, exotic spice markets and ceaseless energy) a darker side of poverty and polio. The scourge of malformed limbs, twisted spines, paralysis and sometimes death from the poliovirus brings fear and dread to families when children display the early signs of the disease. In the battle to defeat polio, Rotarians from clubs around the globe in later January joined forces with health workers to vaccinate every child against it. Overcoming suspicion, hostility, fear and superstition, the teams of workers, winning the hearts and minds of these most vulnerable, have worked tirelessly over many years to eradicate the virus. This has been achieved worldwide, with only Afghanistan and bordering Pakistan (with only a handful of cases reported) not polio free. In India, where immunisation now takes the form of drops given orally to all children under the age of five, I was given the opportunity to join teams from other countries to work in the capital, Delhi. The programme of work (I was not there for a holiday!!) began at 0800 each day. The first main event, following a briefing, was a visit to a school whose 800 pupils took part in a colourful parade and rally to herald the arrival of the immunisation teams and raise awareness of the National Immunisation Project. Dancing, singing, music, camels, horses, entertainment and a cacophony of horns and drums stretched hundreds of yards, stopping five lanes of traffic! Small booths set up around the poorest areas attracted families, with children lining up for their life-saving drops. I had brought with me small gifts, which I distributed to them all after they had been immunised and had had their “pinkie” finger marked with purple dye to ensure that they did not rejoin the queue to obtain a second reward. After 200 children had received gifts, none were left, but the Delhi health workers had small plastic balls to give as presents to ensure that no one was left out. Joining us on this humanitarian mission was Eve Conway, President of Rotary in Britain and Ireland and Katie Foster a journalist from the Independent. Evenings were taken up with visits and Rotary meetings where I was able to present the letter written especially by the Mayor of Ledbury, Debbie Baker, the only documented gifted and much appreciated.. The smells, sounds, bustle and energy that is Delhi are remarkable; sacred cows wander across busy roads, and stray dogs, of which there are hundreds, are savvy enough to follow them, sensing perhaps that they fear no vehicles. The slums are indescribably awful, testaments to abject poverty, with no sanitation or infrastructure. Rubbish and excrement surround them. Igloo-shaped dwellings are made from any available piece of wood and their roofs from branches, plastic and material. A hole in the ground serves as a stove for the preparation of food. Goats are a valuable possession; each wearing a cardigan, with a small sack over their udders to prevent their milk being stolen provided a comical sight. The scale of the slum problem is immense and much is being done to tackle the challenges it poses. Accompanied by the Indian health worker, weaving our way single file through the warrens, we immunised where we could, and were greeted with smiles of welcome. A young girl peeped out from behind her mother’s sari and seemed mesmerised by my appearance. She pointed her finger at me, whispering something to her mother, who smiled. I asked the health worker what had been said and she replied that the child, who had apparently seen a picture of a golden haired person serving a Deity, had asked, “Does the golden lady work for God?” Our visits took us to the Rotary Foundation-endowed St. Stephen’s Hospital, where the Polio Unit’s dedicated orthopaedic miracle worker, Dr Matthew, with the demeanour and appearance of Mahatma Gandhi, labours long hours to provide mobility, albeit by dint of callipers and crutches, to seriously crippled young adults not immunised when they were infants. Many Rotarians donated cash from their Clubs toward the cost of equipment needed to help straighten malformed spines. The School for less privileged children delighted in singing their National Anthem to us (we had to respond in kind with God save the Queen) and guiding us around the building. On the staircase leading to classrooms the times table was painted to help pupils learn as they climbed the steps. We all presented gifts of books, dictionaries, pens, crayons and sweets, drawing applause and gasps of appreciation. The week was soon over and I returned home with mixed feelings and time to reflect. I was humbled by what I'd seen, uplifted by being in a position to help save children from polio and astonished by the remarkable dignity and cheerfulness of people who have nothing but overwhelmed us with their kindness and courtesy. I was often overcome with frustration and sadness at being unable to do more to help, but aware that I was a guest in another country and it is not for me to question, judge or reason, but simply to help. I visited schools at which I witnessed first hand those eager to be educated and hospitals and polio immunisation booths where the people desperately wanted to rid their country of the virus and displayed sheer joy at meeting Rotarians from around the globe. I’m grateful to all the people who gave me books, crayons, soaps and other gifts to carry with me. My suitcase, weighing in at over 23 kg on the outward journey, returned home weighing only 10 kg. I gave everything away, including clothes, shoes, toiletries, food and more. There was no opportunity to shop for presents or buy postcards, so a hastily purchased duty free present for my husband had to suffice! As for Harrison, the End Polio Now Bear - he was a great success and loved by all. So would I do it again? - without hesitation Yes! .